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Handmade pizzas, sandwiches and calzones are great, but you'd
better not be in a hurry since everything here is made fresh to order.
By Anna Poole
Herald Restaurant Critic
EVERETT - When I arrived at Papi's on a recent Thursday night, it
looked like there was only one couple ahead of me. At the counter, I
learned that there were "lots of pizza orders going out at the same
time" and it would be 30 minutes before my sandwich would be
ready.
That news scuttled my plans of enjoying part of a sandwich while
waiting for my dining companion to arrive, but I wasn't on a schedule.
A few minutes into my wait, the couple ahead of me canceled their
order and left.
Papi's isn't a fast-food place. All the hand-tossed pizzas and
sandwiches are made after an order is placed, and the night we
visited, there was only one person working the register and
preparing the food.
This restaurant opened almost three months ago and e-mails from
Herald readers praised the food, especially the sandwiches. My first
ordered of a hummus and veggie pocket ($5.50) arrived at the table a
few minutes after my friend. I made it take-out for lunch the next day.
Despite spending the night in the fridge, the sandwich was a
delicious relief from frozen microwave entrees.
For our dinner, my dining companion ordered the six-inch ham and
cheese grinder ($4.50). My original choice was a meatball calzone
($7.75) but meatballs are only available on Friday night; so, I chose
the basic calzone. My friend filled her cup with lemonade at the
dispenser and picked up some napkins at the self-serve counter. I
pulled a beer from the cooler next to the register.
Papi's is in an old downtown storefront and the display windows
now feature tables. The original brick walls are decorated with
photos of the Red Sox, which adds to the Boston-style deli theme.
Owner Ken Schoenner and manager Jonah Charney have plans to
open a beer garden in the back, but the area needs landscaping and,
for now, they're focused on making pizzas and sandwiches.
The recipes for the pizza sauce and crust came from an aunt who
lives in Seattle. There are eight standing pizza selections ($13.50 to
$16) or customers can create their own by starting with a basic
cheese pizza ($13.50) and adding 50 cents per topping. There are also
salads ($2.50 to $4) and boxed lunch specials that include a six-inch
grinder, chips and soda ($6).
Our sandwiches were made immediately after we ordered and then
more pizza orders came in. Every ingredient in my friend's ham and
cheese was extremely fresh. The bread for the sandwiches comes
from the bakery across the street. She said, "Mmm, mmm" after her
first bite.
My calzone was steaming inside when I cut into it. It was stuffed with
delicious and mildly spicy marinara sauce, ricotta and mozzarella
cheeses. Just like the sandwiches, the freshness of the ingredients
added to the already tasty combination.
We decided the food at Papi's is worth the wait.
Herald restaurant reviewers accept no invitations to review, but
readers' suggestions are always welcome. Reviewers arrive
unannounced, and The Herald pays their tabs.
Published: Friday, August 26, 2005
better not be in a hurry since everything here is made fresh to order.
By Anna Poole
Herald Restaurant Critic
EVERETT - When I arrived at Papi's on a recent Thursday night, it
looked like there was only one couple ahead of me. At the counter, I
learned that there were "lots of pizza orders going out at the same
time" and it would be 30 minutes before my sandwich would be
ready.
That news scuttled my plans of enjoying part of a sandwich while
waiting for my dining companion to arrive, but I wasn't on a schedule.
A few minutes into my wait, the couple ahead of me canceled their
order and left.
Papi's isn't a fast-food place. All the hand-tossed pizzas and
sandwiches are made after an order is placed, and the night we
visited, there was only one person working the register and
preparing the food.
This restaurant opened almost three months ago and e-mails from
Herald readers praised the food, especially the sandwiches. My first
ordered of a hummus and veggie pocket ($5.50) arrived at the table a
few minutes after my friend. I made it take-out for lunch the next day.
Despite spending the night in the fridge, the sandwich was a
delicious relief from frozen microwave entrees.
For our dinner, my dining companion ordered the six-inch ham and
cheese grinder ($4.50). My original choice was a meatball calzone
($7.75) but meatballs are only available on Friday night; so, I chose
the basic calzone. My friend filled her cup with lemonade at the
dispenser and picked up some napkins at the self-serve counter. I
pulled a beer from the cooler next to the register.
Papi's is in an old downtown storefront and the display windows
now feature tables. The original brick walls are decorated with
photos of the Red Sox, which adds to the Boston-style deli theme.
Owner Ken Schoenner and manager Jonah Charney have plans to
open a beer garden in the back, but the area needs landscaping and,
for now, they're focused on making pizzas and sandwiches.
The recipes for the pizza sauce and crust came from an aunt who
lives in Seattle. There are eight standing pizza selections ($13.50 to
$16) or customers can create their own by starting with a basic
cheese pizza ($13.50) and adding 50 cents per topping. There are also
salads ($2.50 to $4) and boxed lunch specials that include a six-inch
grinder, chips and soda ($6).
Our sandwiches were made immediately after we ordered and then
more pizza orders came in. Every ingredient in my friend's ham and
cheese was extremely fresh. The bread for the sandwiches comes
from the bakery across the street. She said, "Mmm, mmm" after her
first bite.
My calzone was steaming inside when I cut into it. It was stuffed with
delicious and mildly spicy marinara sauce, ricotta and mozzarella
cheeses. Just like the sandwiches, the freshness of the ingredients
added to the already tasty combination.
We decided the food at Papi's is worth the wait.
Herald restaurant reviewers accept no invitations to review, but
readers' suggestions are always welcome. Reviewers arrive
unannounced, and The Herald pays their tabs.
Published: Friday, August 26, 2005
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